via-pertugio

Goulotte Pertugio – Cima Grostè

A mixed and ice climbing itinerary in the Brenta Dolomites: atmospheric, enjoyable, and suitable even for those taking their first steps in the discipline. The short approach, the moderate difficulties, and the characteristic Dolomite setting make this route a potential future classic of the area. The line, opened by Marco Maganzini and Andrea Cozzini, follows the logical link-up of two enclosed gullies on the west face of Cima Grostè. Depending on conditions, you may encounter sections of ice, firm snow and mixed terrain.

Approach

From Madonna di Campiglio, take the Grostè lift to Rifugio Stoppani. From there, a 40-minute walk (on foot or with snowshoes, depending on snow cover) leads to the start of the first gully.

Route description

Climb an easy and obvious gully slanting leftwards, just to the right of the north-west spur of Cima Grostè. At its end, traverse rightwards across a snowfield for about 100 metres to reach the base of the evident narrow gully/goulotte, which forms the main section of the climb.

The gully is usually climbed in five pitches, with moderate difficulties and bolted belays every 30–40 metres. The climbing alternates between snow, ice, and a few mixed moves, always in a sheltered and intuitive setting. At the top of the gully, you emerge near the summit plateau of Cima Grostè, which can be reached in about 30 minutes. The descent can be made by rappelling down the route (equipped belays), or via the normal route of Cima Grostè.