Breakfast on Cima Sassara

A spring climb with ice axe, crampons in the dreamlike Brenta Dolomites

This second half of May feels more like a return to winter than spring: temperatures are unusually low, and good weather windows are rare. But Saturday's forecast shows clear skies all day. I call Lorenzo and suggest a climb to Cima Sassara — a goal we’d eyed all winter. No skis this time, just ice axe and crampons. He's always up for an adventure and doesn’t hesitate: Friday night he drives up from Milan, and at 5 a.m. sharp on Saturday we meet in Madonna di Campiglio.

We park at Campo Carlo Magno — the thermometer reads a solid -2°C. Perfect overnight freeze. The first part of the approach is completely dry. We follow the trail from Malga Mondifrà up toward Val Gelada. After a steep initial section, we spot our line: snow-filled gullies and easy but sometimes exposed mixed terrain.

We leave the trail at the perfect moment — just as the snow begins. It’s firm and supportive. We put on our crampons and head first toward the Bocchetta di Mondifrà, then cut right into the amphitheater below Cima Sasso Alto. With these conditions, we quickly reach the traverse that leads us toward our goal: Cima Sassara. A few sections require attention and a steady step, but Lorenzo is focused and in great shape.

Back on snow, we’ve got the final 200 meters of elevation to go. We pop out on the ridge just as the sun makes its appearance. The view more than makes up for the early start. We take a well-earned break and enjoy a breakfast sandwich — and that’s when I realize we never even took our puffy jackets off during the climb... always a good sign.

We descend the same route, and on the way down I can’t help but think how nice it would be to have skis. By noon, we’re back in the valley — just in time for a hearty plate of strangolapreti.

In spring, timing is everything. This time, we nailed it — perfect snow, perfect weather, and not a soul in sight. The whole mountain to ourselves.

Saturday, May 17, 2025